Fit. Fit the capo to the neck with the crossbar clip at the bass side of the neck, closest to the 6th string.

Notice the difference: The crossbar clip is made heavy and integrated into the dimensions of the crossbar and wishbone for a strong and integral fit. The hinges are closely machined and precise.

Notice the difference: We're not the only capo to use this, but the crossbar padding is a hard plastic tubing made for fishtanks. It holds strings solidly with less tension on the pad. This substance also allows more precise string movement during tuning (fewer "hung" strings than with rubber) and it's both virtually indestructible and also easily replaced if ever necessary.

Seat. Seat the capo evenly: As you begin to tighten the pressure pad (turn the round grip… easy does it) gently "rock" the capo from bass to treble use your left hand to make sure the crossbar is seated evenly across strings.

Notice the difference: The pressure pad is elongated to make the crossbar seat itself evenly across all six strings. In addition, the pressure pad is pushed into place not by the center (threaded) screw, but rather by the two rods at either side of the screw (this makes a more even fit and protects the neck finish by spreading pressure out over a larger surface).

Tighten (Easy Does It). While capo is still loose (strings still "buzzing" against the fret), simultaneously turn the grip slowly, and play a couple of strings, using your thumb. When the strings stop "buzzing" and sound clear, then STOP… do not tighten further. This is an important step: the DC capo should hold strings with less pressure than you're used to.

Notice: The crossbar is carefully matched to a typical amount of fingerboard curvature found on modern steel-string guitars. The tightening grip is large, so that you can tighten carefully, only to the point where strings stop buzzing. This fine-tuning minimizes fret wear, and distorts tuning significantly less than other capos.

Speeding Up the Process. If this sounds like a lot of work, admittedly, applying this tool to your guitar is a two-handed job. It takes some seconds longer than a one-handed spring-loaded clamp-style. After you do it a few times, however, you'll develop your own drill and it will become automatic. It typically takes me about 10-15 seconds without hurrying to get to another fret and set it right. Consider this: a spring-loaded capo has the virtue of a speedy change, but because the spring is set at one tension, in order not to be too loose it's typically too tight. So the spring-loaded guy gets there quicker, but then you often have to re-tune more. The DC invites you to sacrifice a few seconds of speed and a few dollars more in favor of a solid feel, a retro look, less fret wear, and something that's priceless: being in tune.

To Remove. Undo the crossbar clip, or alternately, loosen the capo sufficiently that it can be stored on the guitar, above the first fret, on the far side of the nut.

Care and Maintenance. Very little is required. If the moving parts are a bit stiff at first, they are very closely machined for long life, and will settle down to a solid workability after a few uses. A drop of light machine oil on the screw or crossbar clip may be desirable. The crossbar tubing may become discolored or develop grooves; warm it up with a hairdryer to rotate it 90 degrees or wash it or replace it if you want to. I have an old capo I used for 12 years with the same tubing, and it still works fine (but not as well as the DC). I've never even come close to wearing out one of the leather pads.

Our Promise to You (And a Disclaimer). If the DC Capo fails in normal use we'll repair it or replace it, our choice. (If you back over it with your pickup, it's on you, but we'll sell you another one, at a slight discount, just to ease your grief.)

If it doesn't work like we say and you're dissatisfied with it, send it back within 90 days for a cheerful refund.

While the DC Capo is designed to be very gentle to your instrument, we specifically do not warrant against damage to your instrument: sometimes someone uses a good tool in a way it's not intended, and we won't be responsible if someone does.

A Last Word From Dan Crary. In a world where guitar accessories are multiplying daily, yet another capo seems unnecessary. And at a quick glance, this one looks very similar to crossbar-type capos around since the 20th century. But no; to us the most important thing isn't a better capo, it's better guitar music. We introduced the DC Capo because we thought it would solve some capo problems and make better guitar music. I took my abstract capo ideas to master machinist David Elliott up in Oregon, he put them into brass, then we criticized, tested, redesigned, tested some more, and so on. In short, I worked out the ideas over decades of performing, and David and I worked like dogs to make this capo a tool for better, more-in-tune guitar music. We continue to test, refine, listen to our customers, and strive to get it right.

I've used this capo myself since early 2003: for the first time in my life I can go from "Wabash Cannonball" in the open position (on my 16 fret Taylor guitar) to "Jimmie Brown The Newsboy" at the seventh fret with no significant distortion of the tuning.

So we're not messing around here. If you have our capo and it's not working for you, I'd invite you to review the steps above; then if they don't clear it up the problem, we'd welcome your telling us about it and returning it to us for a refund. And in the case it does work, I'd be happy to hear that from you as well. Around here we take guitar music seriously, think it makes a better and more peaceable world, and want to do everything we can to advance it.

Power to the pickers, my friends.